I took inspiration for the name of this South Bohemian birdwatcher’s paradise from a Facebook post by Vašek Křížek. And he is absolutely right. The Velký and Malý Tisý National Nature Reserve is a breathtaking and diverse place where, all year round, you can spot a great many different species – and not just birds. I myself have been visiting this place with my family fairly regularly for several years now, two or three times a year. Thanks to our membership of the Czech Ornithological Society, we have the opportunity to use the local field station at Velký Tisý, which has been here since 1952. And despite the restrictions imposed by the Nature Conservation Act, we are able to enjoy unforgettable experiences here whilst observing, for example, white-tailed eagles, herons, common cranes and many other species. My personal bird list for this site comprises 140 bird species; among the most interesting species observed are the sandpiper, bittern, black-winged stilt, rusty goose, white-fronted goose, black-headed gull, spotted crake, black tern and dark-billed plover.
What is the Pantanal?
The Pantanal (from the Portuguese word *pantano* – ‘swamp’) is a vast wetland in south-western Brazil, within the basins of the Paraguay and Cuiabá rivers. Examples of the local fauna include the ocelot, marsh deer, American jaguar, giant anteater, Central Brazilian guan, giant otter, Bolivian priest bird and giant armadillo. (Source: Wikipedia)
Velký Tisý Field Station
The most popular ČSO station is situated in the heart of the Třeboňsko Protected Landscape Area, on the embankment of the Velký Tisý pond. Many interesting species nest in the immediate vicinity – for example, the white-tailed eagle, the black kite, the honey buzzard, the Eurasian goshawk, the marsh harrier, the red-billed chough, the northern goldeneye, the horned grebe and the little grebe, the common tern, the common nightingale, the Central European bluethroat, and the nightingale warbler. In late summer, Velký Tisý regularly becomes a gathering place for several thousand greater white-fronted geese. There are also very interesting sightings during the autumn and spring migrations (e.g. barnacle goose, Eurasian wigeon, white-fronted goose, red kite, osprey, great crested grebe, etc.).
The station is connected to the mains electricity supply; there is a kitchenette with basic facilities, blankets are provided (but no bed linen), the station is heated with wood, water is brought in from nearby fish ponds, and all waste, except for ash, must be taken away by visitors at the end of their stay.
The station is situated within a national nature reserve, which is accessible only by footpaths. In the immediate vicinity of the station are the Velký Tisý dam, the path connecting the dams of the Velký and Malý Dubovec ponds, and the path to the Lužnice railway station. (Source: ČSO)
November visit
To go or not to go? That was the question I asked myself after my last visit to the fish farm during the September floods. In the end, I decided to go. And my reasoning was quite simple. We had planned the visit for the weekend of 15–17 November. I learnt from Šaloun, the local fish farm manager, that the Velký Tisý pond would be being harvested from 18 November. This was despite the pond being ‘overfilled’ with water due to the floods and flood-control measures. As was explained to me, within the National Nature Reserve, the date for draining this pond is coordinated with the Agency for Nature Conservation and Landscape Protection (AOPK) once every two years, and once set, it is fixed and cannot be changed.
Thanks to this information, I slowly began to make plans on how to make the most of the visit and what I might be able to observe or photograph. And this time, I decided to make the most of the situation and try to focus on the local population of white-tailed eagles. In my opinion, this was an ideal opportunity, because after many conversations with locals, I discovered that the eagles gather at ponds that are being prepared for the fish harvest. And the reason is simple – it offers an easier opportunity to hunt and secure food.
The main objective? White-tailed eagles
What exactly should I write about the main objective? As I mentioned in the previous paragraph, I was drawn to the white-tailed eagles. I observe and photograph them at this site quite regularly; on one visit, I watched as many as 25 of them circling in a warm air current. Yes, 25 eagles. This time, however, the situation was different. The forthcoming fish harvest from the pond was set to work in my favour, offering the chance for easier observation and, hopefully, photography too.
My plans were realistic, and I wasn’t counting on taking ‘atlas-quality’ photographs. I was more interested in capturing the eagles in their natural habitat. I tailored my preparations accordingly. I hid amongst the reeds at a safe distance from a potential hunting ground and waited. From six o’clock in the morning. Sunrise was at seven. It took quite a while, but eventually the feathered fellows made an appearance. Much as I’d imagined. There’s probably no need to write any more about it. I enjoyed the cool morning, watching the eagles and taking photographs. And not just the eagles. Several species of birds paraded past my lens, and I tried to photograph them in a way I’d never had the chance – or the luck – to do before.
So please enjoy the photographs, and I hope that through them I’ll be able to convey some of the atmosphere that I myself enjoyed.
